Today, exceptional rosé wines are made, different from those produced up to 30 years ago.
Pink wine is now an element of comparison in the market, because it is a growing trend.
Someone stopped producing rosé because it was not profitable, someone else made rosé only as a by-product or to complete their range of wines.
Today everyone makes rosé because the market is calling.
Anyone can make rosé wine, you just need to have red grapes. However, not everyone has the vocation to make rosé.
What is meant by vocation?
The vocation is due to the climate, the territory, the grapes, the genetics and the tradition that make it possible to obtain grapes that find the best interpretation in rosé wine.
To produce rosé you need a dedicated viticulture, you need adequate winemaking techniques, otherwise you can risk to obtain a rosé colored wine. And not a pink wine with its own clear and defined identity.
The vocation is the story of men, of teachings, of handing over and of wonderful stories. Values that give importance to the territory and the wine.
Why is Provence the most famous region in the world for the production of rosé wine?
In Provence, huge investments are made annually for experimentation and research dedicated to rosé wine.
The consumer appreciates Provençal wine because he thinks that this type of wine is produced only there.
You can also make a better rosé than the Provençal ones (and I assure you it is possible) but the Provençal ones have a clear sensorial profile with its own identity. This is because the many producers share the same philosophy.
Many areas in Italy have a strong vocation for the production of rosé wine that must be defended and enhanced. Instead we are witnessing a process that goes in the opposite direction.
Rosé wines with intense colors become lighter and paler to copy the Provençal wines.
“Pink Wine is a question of Style” (Angelo Peretti)
This article by Angelo Peretti made me think a lot. After tasting a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, a pink wine with a very intense color reminiscent of cherries, he defined it as a red wine in color but pink in character. And it’s really true, making rosé is an attitude.
“Rosé is an antidote to formalism” (Mattia Vezzola)
In a masterclass held by Mattia Vezzola, winemaker and owner of the Costaripa company on Lake Garda, this concept was expressed several times. Making rosé by vocation. There are some territories perfect for the production of rosé wine, but we can also expand the discussion to fruit and vegetables. Sicily is a territory suited to the production of citrus fruits, the Trentino region for apples. Are there citrus fruits in Trentino? Perhaps in the greenhouse, but the vocation of citrus fruits is the Sicilian territory.
You have to stop looking for something that does not belong to your territory.
We must avoid mimicking others, respecting the territory and enhancing the wine.
When a grandfather teaches his grandson to harvest, to choose grapes, this is the moment in which knowledge and tradition and culture are handed down. It is not just a question of passion. It is also passion.
“It is not just a question of passion. It is also passion” (Mattia Vezzola)